Bell & Ross has a knack for being on the right side of the zeitgeist, having most recently predicted the unstoppable return of precious metal cases with its BR 05 Green Gold model last year (an anchoring piece of our gold special, featured last issue.) The brand is masterful in having just what the market is hankering for, and of course serving its needs when it has a measure of unexpected success, which is what the BR 05 Chrono Grey Steel and Gold is. The story began with the BR 05 Chrono Edicion Limitada with Havana dial in 2022. Long story short, that watch sold out in such impressive style that Bell & Ross was properly motivated to follow up with a wide release (the brand website still has it in stock but we are informed that it is not available).
So, what do we have here? Most obviously, this is a bicompax chronograph with an integrated bracelet, featuring the bimetallic steel-and-rose-gold look that was once so promising (maybe Bell & Ross is suggesting that it could be again). The dial here is now grey ruthenium, and thus thoughts of having a second shot at the Havana dial perish. On that note, Bell & Ross say the metallic hues of the dial were obtained by a galvanic process so the brand has not skimped on its vaunted design chops here. The hands are rose gold, matching the corresponding elements on the bezel and bracelet, and are filled with SuperLuminova. While the numerals and hour makers might appear to follow the same pattern, these are all gilded; nevertheless, these are filled with SuperLuminova too (the hour markers, not the numerals).
For matters like this, and the gold tracks of the chronograph counters, it is best to check with your authorised dealer for the correct information as available manufacturer notes on these details can be contradictory. What is pretty clear in the release for this watch and our own notes is that that calibre BR-CAL.326 is a modified version of the Sellita SW510; the product specialists provided this detail while the official release simply noted that the calibre was reworked by Bell & Ross watchmakers. One sign of this reworking is the signature full disc of the winding rotor, visible via the exhibition caseback.
To finish up here, a few notes on the rose gold and the differences between versions. There is a rubber strap option but that is a separate reference priced at SGD 13,400. Another price worth noting is that of the Edicion Limitada, which is listed at SGD 18,200 (only with bracelet) and the standard steel BR 05 chronograph (SGD 9,700 with bracelet; SGD 8,700 with rubber strap). The most obvious question is the matter of price differential between the Grey Steel and Havana- dial references.
Movement: Automatic BR-CAL.326 with chronograph and date; 60-hour power reserve
Case: 42mm in steel and gold; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Integrated steel and gold bracelet or rubber
Price: SGD 19,800
This article first appeared on WOW’s Summer 2024 issue.
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